CELEBRATING TRUE ITALIAN STYLE SINCE 1890
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THE EDIT

BESPOKE FABRICS

March 13, 2015

To create the perfect gentleman's wardrobe, the choice in fabric quality is essential, as is the harmonious mix between different patterns. Materials should be selected according to season, context (free time, business, wedding, etc...), and place: every element should help to guide the choice, adapting the possibilities based on fabric weight, colours and weave. 

According to some arbiter alegantiarum, one of the main causes of the deterioration of clothing is the use of standardized medium or lightweight fabrics created using finer yarns of a lower quality. Heavier fabrics in fact play an important role in keeping the crease in trousers and the shape of a jacket in place. Each season, certain fabrics and garments can be worn depending if the occassion is for work or leisure. Amongst the fabrics best suited to suits and coats, for character and elegance we recommend the following designs. We begin with Glen Plaid Check or 'Prince of Wales', named after the endless variations of the classic colourful design, which can be both formal and sporty. The name derives from the Duke of Windsor's father, George V, Prince of Wales, who extended its use in country estates before his coronation. The fabric has a sophisticated character but in most variations is fairly informal. The Harris Tweed meanwhile is produced exclusively in the Scottish Hebrides islands, and Harris is an important area of one of the main islands. Hand-spun on antique looms, it is slightly rough to touch and distinguished by warm tones with a melange effect. As a heavy fabric even in lighter versions, thanks to its hygroscopic properties is it can be used at any time of the year except during summer. Herringbone needs no introduction, and is loved by elegant men around the world. Another important part of the male wardrobe is Houndstooth, suitable for jackets in bolder fabrics and colours, both on formal and informal occassions. For autumn and winter, flannel is ideal for suits, trousers and blazers, thanks to its natural properties and shaded/two tone effects. Grisaille is perfect for the workplace, and is characterised by the use of alternate light and dark threads that create a ladder effect of grey shades (hence the name). There are also unique fabrics and patterns such as Casentino cloth, a textile that originates from the Arno valley in Tuscany, Solaro, typically beige and red, Bird's Eye, and ancient linen cloth. The Esquire style guide, a bible for modern gentlemen, recommends these nine fabrics and their uses. Never forget to adapt your style to the situation at hand. 

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